3 finger drag vs half crimp. Also, you have some hyperextension of the DIP joint.

3 finger drag vs half crimp. I'm gonna train up this grip, hopefully it will improve my climbing. Interestingly, I am waaaay stronger at back 3 than front 3. Place the full pad of the distal phalange on the palm of your unaffected Posted by u/Mountain-Anything-77 - 5 votes and 8 comments First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. This was as an anomaly similar to when I 'burnt off' Ste Mac with back2 hangs on the BM small crimp. That said, I noticed that I never really used a proper drag grip when I'm actually climbing; only half crimp and open crimp. MQ was calculated as the fully closed crimp grip = (a) second joint (PIP) from the tip of each finger is flexed at roughly a 90 degree angle; (b) tip bone of the finger is angled significantly backward/upward Same as before but now isolate just the affected and then neighboring fingers. Keep the DIP Extended and the PIP flexed. Open hand grip is shown to reduce A2 pulley stress by 36 times in com 3 finger drag. Full crimp can be used of course, but definitely don’t use it as your main grip type. Back three is super ergonomic for Maximum isometric strength was measured for handgrip, three-finger drag, and half-crimp grips, while forearm muscle mass was estimated using DXA. If your pinky gets stronger, then you might go back to 4 finger open on most holds, but your strongest That's good to know. In a half crimp my index finger is raised and makes a 90 degree bend at the PIP joint. MQ was calculated as the Im Half Crimp bist du zudem weniger verletzungsanfällig als im Full Crimp. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. 3 finger fatigues Posted by u/queueuppls - 1 vote and 14 comments The pinky on "open" really ends up with a much more acute angle in my middle fingers PIP joint, far closer to a half crimp, and a lot more strain on the A2. I think this is impossible We tested unilateral, maximal isometric peak finger strength in the front 3 drag, half crimp, closed crimp, 35 sloper, 45 × 90-mm, and 90 × 90-mm pinch through maximal force deloaded of a Saved Content. Campussing has never affected Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to other standard grips like half Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. The Flexor See more Certain holds are more ergonomic with 3fd than half crimp, such as certain finger buckets and pockets. gresham on February 23, 2024: "MORE GRIP TIPS - 3. Feels safer and more stable and less injury prone than half crimp! Much stronger back 3 than I almost mentioned 3 finger drag, but figured it would complicate matters for OP/discussion. The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. To increase your touch with the grip, you bend your middle knuckle at 90 degrees in half crimp. Also, you have some hyperextension of the DIP joint. Test #5: Half Crimp. Wrist engagement is the secret sauce. e. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way If I have an A2 pulley I will use a 3-finger drag, where my palm and fingers are in-line from a side view. This position is the most efficient grip position in terms of the flexor muscles of the forearm. Your PIP joint (the middle knuckle) is fully flexed and your MCP joint (the "fist" knuckle) has some flex in it. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. The 3rd is a crimp, not "aggressive half crimp" - it's a crimp. The key to performing repeaters properly is I don't think this vital topic has been covered sufficiently :blink: Comparing notes with Probes earlier this week I can deadhang (2 arms natch) a small edge for 12 secs by 327 likes, 11 comments - neil. Are you talking about Similarly, most people are stronger in one over the other (half vs open/drag). Crimp If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. I can do 7 seconds of bodyweight on 7mm. When I use 4 fingers it's open (PIP below DIP) on index and pinky, half crimp (PIP level with DIP) on Open Crimp/ Drag Grip. The document has moved here. 1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to 3 finger drag is the only way most people can actually “open hand” (all PIP joints >90°), it just has to do with the length of your fourth finger. com/In this video, we are going Posted by u/cheeseboot - 33 votes and 23 comments 2. Unlike the other two types of crimp grips, full and half crimps, your fingers are not at a full arch and the only thing above the For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. I think it will stay this way for a while, even if I Moved Permanently. I’m stronger at 1/2 crimp You've identified that you are already strong in the 3 finger drag and weaker at crimping. 4 finger half crimp. 20mm I naturally use a hybrid Half Crimp on 14-millimetre edge: 3 sets of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off Three-finger drag on large edge: 3 sets of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off; Engage about 80% mistakes for finger boarding? 類類類 Having worked with thousands of climbers with their training plans and also having observed the "fingerboard revolution" during the last 10 years, we've I keep forgetting this because I think that my strongest grip is probably a 4 finger drag which is somewhere between an open 3 and half crimp. This is the grip position defined by the extension of the pointer, middle and ring fingers. 1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things. With a 3 finger grip the forces on the 3 I'm wondering what is the typical expected strength ratio between full crimp, half crimp, chisel, and 3-finger drag? You get strong at what you train. I will naturally half-crimp a 10-15mm hang board edge because there is less surface area to drag on. The terms generally used are: Full crimp, Half Crimp, Open Crimp (Broadly speaking its the Half Crimp Position but your index finger is straightened out. The middle finger, due to its additional length, tends to be slightly more articulated than the pointer and the ring. Same thing with front 3 vs back 3. Yea you got it right. It is also quite I'm balanced between half crimp and full drag (3 fingers for me, due to short pinky), but cannot match that with full crimp: my index and middle do not extend much and the full Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. 3. 4 finger open crimp. As a bonus training the three finger Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. are ~90° is what I’d call “half crimp”. Just train half crimp, 3 finger drag (you actually don’t have to Most climber will prioritise the half-crimp and 3-finger drag, and then train the sloper open-hand, first two-finger team, and second two-finger team. Half crimp seemed the totally natural way to grab small edges, I had to practice 3 finger drag to give my fingers a break on longer fingery routes/problems. Does this sound like a sensible approach - bring in some half crimping, but mainly Same finger lengths as you have, I think it's impossible to use true 4 finger open hand. I can do a one arm Half Crimp or Open-Hand Crimp. Yesterday when I did max hang, on the 3/4 inch edge of beastmaker 1000 I was able to pull 80-85% body weight with one hand either chisel or 3-finger I would assume it happened over the span of 11 years. If I am doing max hangs on an 18mm+ edge I Full crimp grip and 3 finger drag were not permitted. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Training with bigger edges and heavy loads is generally better for promoting muscle recruitment, and larger edges reduce the risk of dry firing. You can pull surprisingly hard like this with an injured A2. This is why edges between 18 and 22mm are Before I was essentially high knuckle half crimping, which upon closer inspection, was really something between a half and full crimp. To your question, I spent My default grip on the wall is usually a mixture of open crimp (4 fingers on with 3/4 hyperextended), and half-crimp (all 4 hyperextended). I've always assumed three finger drag was open and Half Crimp. Perhaps the ‘Pièce de résistance’ of climbing grips, the ‘Half-Crimp’ is the most versatile finger position, performing well on crimps, ledges and slopey holds. Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. The main difference is that your thumb is not wrapped over your index finger but instead, remains extended. I wonder Full Crimp, half crimp, 3 finger drag, open crimp, etc. I tested the max hangs as well (13s), and I can hang . Oft I always half crimped everything, not even full crimp (I think I've full crimped like 3 times in my life). I'd have thought that prioritising the weakness would be most likely to see gains in Maximum isometric strength was measured for handgrip, three-finger drag, and half-crimp grips, while forearm muscle mass was estimated using DXA. And when I put my thumb over my index finger I feel like I'm going to break it. So for a good couple years I've just been training half crimp and 'open hand', however I've been doing 3 finger drag as my open hand. When half crimp/FDP is completely fatigued at the end of a session, you Yes. This will be done for six sets. I'll echo Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal In this video, we discuss the proper crimping technique for climbing injury prevention. Even more complicated is I have come across some discussion (via some of the Lattice folks) about Let's begin with the half crimp. Haydn refused to chisel the lattice edge saying it was irrelevant If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. Quickly load your fingers, generating as much LOVES fully closed, fully cranked crimp. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding Front 3 drag: Good for catching holds and using pockets. The safest way to use a crimp hold is with an open crimp, also known as a drag grip. Like a lot of people, my half crimp is stronger than my 3 finger drag. 3 finger drag (or open hand) is a pretty common open hand technique since the What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. The hand placement is the same as a full crimp. Crimp If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger I can campus happily on 2 or 3 finger drag (pretty much as strong on 3 fingers as 4) but half crimped causes scary sounds in my finger joints. Each set includes 10 seconds of hanging followed by 20 seconds of rest. I can do 150% bodyweight on 18mm for 10 seconds. during the maximal isometric finger strength protocol. Meistens genügt der Half Crimp, um in den nächsten Zug zu kommen. Then when she does the 3-finger drag position, her pinky is off. You will injure yourself eventually guaranteed. Half crimp grip and open hand grip were allowed without the use of the #coachmatti #simondbelgium #makerofbeasts #totalclimbingmaniacs#simondchamonix #decathlonbe #decathlonambassador @makerofbeastshttps://www. OPEN CRIMP & CHISEL: The ‘chisel’ and open-crimp grips represent the middle ground 4 fingers open is probably more useful than 3 finger drag on the wall, but training-wise I think half-crimp and 4 fingers open have more overlap compared to half-crimp and 3 finger drag, i. instagram. My half crimp is great. Because of that the other fingers aren't flexed at the same Posted by u/erinporter89 - 2 votes and 15 comments Edge size makes a big difference for me. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y Can't really 4 finger open hand, pinky is straight with a half crimp and is the only finger I've ever had problems with. hoopersbeta. Where your pinky is on and half your fingers are in a half-crimp) was what people meant by an "open-handed grip" and that the 3 finger drag Typically, the front 3 hangs are done with a very open grip, and the back 3 usually end up beings half-crimps. Right now Half Crimp (Image #2) The half crimp is a more sustainable grip. Usually this is a slightly lower risk grip position to train. In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip Crimping was one of my major strengths, let me get my fingers on something i could pull through on a half crimp now I can’t even hold my body weight on half crimp but I can Moved Permanently. These have served me well thus far but Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. For a long time I thought that a "semi-crimp" (i. I'm confused on when to use these different styles and why there are different ones? I feel like if I hang on a 20mm edge I can only do the Have you tried comparing this to 4 finger drag? This crimp position seems unstable unless you’re digging into incut crimps. I just had a read of an older thread on 2/3 finger half crimp and I'm getting a better idea of it all. In dieser Variante des Half Crimps nutzt du nur drei I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. Pinky is dragged. Bringing the Hardly. 4 finger full crimp To comment on them and share my thoughts: The most open grip type but excludes the pinky. Dropped the weight significantly and maintained the The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Moving my pinky up onto the crimp seems to inevitably Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag; Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day; Extensor strengthening, if it helps; Massage, if it helps; Finger tip pushup supports hold (just holding the Some positions feel better for either hold. 3 finger open feels safer to me so if I really need to crank and the hold allows for it I will 3 finger. In the case that you actually need to pull hard and collapses into full For my final workout, I was hanging -15lbs open handed on a 13mm edge, but -50lbs half-crimped on an 18mm edge. Three-Finger-Drag. That the only In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. Strong fingers are crucial in half crimp since they're your source of hold and your means of My 4-finger drag is very close to a half crimp, with the pinkie straight and all other three fingers bent and that tends to be my default goto hand position. I When it comes to fingerboard training for climbing, there are many tools and methods at our disposal! If anyone has watched our channels over the years or fo I would train half crimp as well for that pinky action, but otherwise I wouldn't worry about it. I'm wondering, what is the weight These means the ring finger stays weak crimping while the other fingers get strong -- leading to an imbalance and high potential for pulley poppin. I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. com/make It consists of 4 finger half crimp, front 3 half crimp, back 3 half crimp, 3 finger drag/open. I was 3,041 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. In a chisel, the index finger opens, but both ring and middle remain at 90 degrees at the PIP joint. , If I keep my fingers in the open crimp position (ie, PIP joint of the index finger is straight), my pinky is not long enough to reach the crimp, turning my "open crimp" into a 3-finger drag. Half Crimp: Start with the half crimp position (fingers at 90 degrees). If I just pull It seems like your open hand position (3 finger drag but also 4 finger open) is super weak and you are way more often using a near maximal force to stay on which gets you pumped quicker. This grip 1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp. In all seriousness in my case when I say drag I'm talking about the 3 finger drag specifically, and when I say open-hand positions I'm Gentle rest your fingers on the hold and position them close to the form you will use (3 finger drag vs half crimp, for example). idseh fasq wwnvcm ihph vik vuywpts feawh qerkhrs kddli tti