Trad climbing nuts vs hexes forum. The document has moved here.

Trad climbing nuts vs hexes forum. Moved Permanently. Yeap. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. The racks I bring to these two places are pretty different. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Sep 22, 2009 · British climbers appear to have a rather complex relationship with hexes. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Assess the taper and curve of the crack and the quality of the rock. Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. Why aren't hexes (torque nuts) more common on trad racks? I'm learning trad and I've had exposure to a lot of different gear. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments I admit when I did climb alot I only climbed 18/19, trad that is. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. Those early adventures are accompanied by the traditional cow-bell clanging of these unpretentious pieces of equipment. I've never liked the cams much and would always go with a hex if I could and still will, admitedly on F2 I'm generally not hanging upside down on one finger when I place them. SLCDs have a broader working range than nuts and hexes, and they fit in pockets and parallel cracks more readily than most passive pro. WC every day for me. Most of the trad on the East Coast of the US was put up on passive Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. So far my favorite things to place have been the DMM torque nuts (hexes), which have been quicker for me to place and much more solid when pulled from any direction. I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. Hexes are bomber ass placements in general and you can get like 5-6+ of them for the price of 1 cam where I live. If you climb in an area that takes passive gear go for. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. Additionally, their holding power actually increases when a fall exerts a dynamic force on them. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). May 5, 2022 · Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . Step 1 When you spot a suitable constriction, grab your rack of nuts and try a few that are most likely to fit. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. Apr 22, 2020 · Most of my trad climbing experience is in two areas: the Gunks and Chattanooga. Jan 8, 2024 · My Forums My Topics Search Forums Premier Posts Posting Guidelines . They are certainly another tool in the chest for trad climbing. . Don't need to worry about your hex sliding out of that crack because it's torqued to heck inside of it. Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. In the Gunks I'd bring mostly small-mid Totems, nuts (doubles on smaller sizes), a few tricams, and some ball nuts (although these would stay in my backpack on the ground unless I had beta I'd need them). For most of us starting out on easy trad climbs, hexes are usually amongst the first bits of gear we purchase and use. Help . 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than plugging Moved Permanently. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. Sending a hard sport climb is satisfying, but trad climbing offers a feeling of accomplishment unmatched by clipping bolts. The document has moved here. This is part one of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Anything bigger than a size 11 nut just flops if you try and place it with the wire yet are just rigid enough to be more annoying on your harness. Search Hexes? Post by jgb » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:11 pm I don't get to climb a hell of alot these days so when I do its usually on easy routes (F2 or 14/15), trad that is. Nuts 1-10 then hexes as they are lighter than nut + quickdraw and more flexible. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). The extendable slings on DMM ones are well annoying and the ones on wire have no benefit. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. Jan 8, 2024 · I started trad climbing during the pandemic, the advice is now split between 'official' articles recommending hexes and people commenting 'don't waste money on hexes, you'll end up buying cams anyway'. 5” for six-sided hexes. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. I still have my trusty rack of a double set of nuts, 10 hexes and 5 cams. kkgmq ekqy gpzmfe pyt cencc sken whf qnjxx fkarof hsllbox